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Confessions from the L.A. Textile Show

April 26, 2008 by Gayvin

I confess, it was my virgin trip to the Los Angeles Textile Show. What an experience! I went through over a hundred booths seeking those “it” pieces of fabric that I had designed my Spring ’09 Eve’s Apples lingerie line around.

I can’t deny it, I adored the French lace. If French lace is a sin, then I don’t want redemption. Unfortunately, with the U.S. economy being so fragile and my greatest attempt at staying away from the higher end pieces, my lovely lace was still priced at over $90 per meter…Time to reconsider my line.

After three days of silk, satin, and lace, two Project Runway alumni sightings and one caffine infused drink every hour, I focused on looking for inspiration pieces. Fortunately, that is just what I found. Time and sleep solved the sensory overload from last week and a few pieces have stuck with me that inpsired an entirely new line.

The big hit of the show was all of the new eco-fabrics in bamboo, hemp, and recycled materials. I have to agree with Women’s Wear Daily and say that next year, I think we’ll see a lot more of eco-friendly garments, including lingerie, in the market place. Here is a round of applause to companies creating fabric that is both sustainable for the environment and can be as soft as sillk.

In spring 2009, we’ll see designers rethinking and recreating the look of luxurious lingerie. Due to ingenious approaches to fabric and the varying international economys, lingerie designers have a great opportunity to be even more innovative with their styles and use of embellishing materials. I’m excited to see what wonderful and creative delicacies are revealed next year!

Charlotte Sparey Designs

April 16, 2008 by Rene

TLP interviews Charlotte Sparey. Charlotte Sparey is a unique design talent combining a love and understanding of the history of lingerie and corsetry with a deep commitment to environmental responsibility and sustainable fabrics.

Q. Tell us about your background.
A. I went to Demontfort University and did BA Contour Fashion which has been going for 50 years and still stands today as the only course in the world doing in-depth lingerie, corsetry, swimwear and basque design and construction.

Q. Did you complete a final project for the programme?
A. My final collection ‘Una Pinch, Awareness Collection’ has been based around the issues of the environment today. I wanted my customer to feel they where wearing a quality product with quality values. My construction focus was on the soft cup bra, reinventing classic shapes like the 60’s Berlie bra for the modern women, creating modern support using eco friendly raw materials.

Q. Eco friendly lingerie is a popular trend. We’ve seen seaweed and wood blends. (Read the archives). What sort of materials were you working with?
A. Coconut button details made from reclaimed coconut shells from a coconut milk factory. PJ top and shorts have silk moths printed on 40% hemp 60% silk fabric produced in the hills of China in a combination hemp and silk farm where workers have rights on there working conditions. Structural pieces like waspie’s, girdles, suspender belts and corset bras have been recycled from charity garments and backed with hemp. Organic cotton jersey, trims, elastics, threads and strapping as we have had many issues in Africa and Russia with pesticide poisoning.

Q. Sounds like you are very committed to this issue and that you have first hand experience with sourcing many of the materials. Are you working internationally?
A. I have just finished a 6 month contract with Shibani Inwear in Mauritius working as a lingerie design consultant which including working on collections with Playtex and Triumph. I worked on seamless knitted garments in a vertically integrated manufacturer which is still very much a revolutionary form of seam-less which I developed both seamless knitting and cut and sew bras.

Q. What are you doing now?
A. I am currently looking for a job in South Africa.

Q. Why don’t we review some of your pieces from you Una Pinch series?
A. These are very make do mend pieces with an awareness underlining tone. All garment come with ticket information about the raw products it was made and how far these products have traveled to be part of the piece. These garments are to be worn with pride as they are truly guilt free. Pieces range from £50.00-£250.00

The night dress was hand painted with cotton fields and has a recycled shirt front with coconut button.

Girdle – Recycled Charity checked cloth, Lined with hemp canvas and organic cotton. All Binding, boning case, rose trim and elastic are Organically produced and certified. Racerback Bra & Knicker set – This racerback shape, front fastened, silk/hemp lined bra, is non-wired with a metal double busk front. Also has boned side seam that combines to create a milk maid bursting bust of support. Both knicker and bra have charity cotton, hemp/silk and organic cottons.

Corset Bra & Suspender Belt – This short corset has been designed to boost the bust vintage style with a metal front busk and high racer back lacing. The suspender has been made as a matching set with charity cloth and organic cottons. Knicker – Compliments this tweed set with a lavish of silk/hemp with a hint of lacing throughout the rear.

V-shaped bra + knicker set – This silk soft cup bra has been designed with influence from the 60’s Berlie bra. It’s centre front triangle shape becomes the main support of which a floating cradle comes from to support and boost the bust without the need for a wire. The silk cups sit underneath the cradle and holds the silhouette from the support of the front triangle. The knickers flow through from the waspie with provocative lacing over the bum. Waspie – The waspie follows the bra with a contrasting triangle of silk/hemp and gives the waist a pinched silhouette with lavishes of lacing through the back. This also follows the charity cloth and organic cotton as seen through the collection.

Photos from Katherine Jones (site) (TLP)

Enamore on Sale

April 13, 2008 by Rene

Ayten Gasson designs a special lingerie line for Enamore featuring silk and hemp. See our previous article about Enamore. Now, you can find some of the pieces on sale at 50% off. Hurry, sizes and quantities are limited.

Chocolate Peek a Boo bikini bra – £22.50

The Jezebelle camisole is made from soft lemon soya and organic cotton jersey – £29

The snow white hemp and silk bralette trimmed with vintage style black stretch lace and ribbon ties – £22.50

Enamore by Ayten Gasson new @ Glam Am

April 20, 2007 by Mandolina

A newcomer at Glam Am this April is the Enamore by Ayten Gasson collection. From glamorousamorous.com: “As well as designing and making for her own label, Ayten Gasson has collaborated with fashion label Enamore by Jenny Ambrose to create a range of hand made lingerie using hemp blended with silk/cotton and vintage prints. The designs are inspired by vintage shapes focusing on knickers and soft bras with camisoles and kimonos to come later in summer.”

Well, all of these pieces are very special! They’re a combination of Ayten’s signature style (I’d describe it as Vintecadence 😉 ) and that little extra touch of…. something. I’d say it’s 95% Ayten, 5% something, though!

Take a look at this stunning Mon Bijou Crossover Bra, French Knickers and Eyemask Set – a dark chocolate hemp and silk crossover bra with pretty matching ribbon ties trimmed with high end blue lace, Silk French knickers with matching ribbon ties trimmed with vintage blue lace and a gorgeous eye mask made from a blend of hemp and silk.

Looking for something even more fabulous? Check out the Enamore Sensibella Camisole and Knickers Set made from 100% pure silk satin trimmed with light green delicate lace and ribbon – £90 of pure joy!

I know this isn’t for everyone’s budget. Hell, it’s not for my budget. But: wow!

Hemp Lingerie Confessions from the L.A. Textile Show April 26, 2008 by Gayvin I confess, it was my virgin trip to the Los Angeles Textile Show. What an experience! I went through over a

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